Detecting Metal Ions
Just about every meadow holds some hidden treasures, from ancient gold and silver coins to more modern secret lost items, such as rings. Acquire a metal detector and uncover your own little bit of heritage!

 Detecting Metal Ions
Possibly one of the quickest expanding interests in the country is metal detecting, but before you just dive in and shell out a good deal of cash on a cutting edge metal detector, there are some things that you need to acknowledge. Just about every metal detector features all the same components and parts, however you can find quite a lot of different options in brandnames that you can purchase. Benefit from online resources like the sites listed on this page to evaluate metal detecting reports that's going to make it easier to learn which brands and models offer the most options for the money.



63 Bounty Hunter Metal Detector
Detecting Metal Ions Bounty Hunter Metal Detector Will you be starting out in the wonderful world of metal detecting, if you are why don't you try a Bounty Hunter Detecting Metal Ions Metal Detector. The Bounty Hunters are generally easy to use and the lightweight frame means Detecting Metal Ions they are workable by everyone, although their are lots of versions and a few rather superior machines, nearly all revenue tend to originate from the more low cost machines. Just about any Bounty Hunter Detector will come with built-in sensitivity Detecting Metal Ions meters that are adjustable to match the soil conditions over which you will be exploring. The more advanced models happen to be integrated with graphic reference upon an LCD screen thus letting you see anything you have located. Bounty Hunter metal detectors tend to be massive sellers mostly because of their ease of use. Built in ground balancing settings gives you search free detecting on beachfront to hefty mineralized areas. Detecting Metal Ions The currently standard LCD Display shows the kinds of metal getting found, usually there's a simple Probable Depth Pointer which works in conjunction with the Target Identification module to provide easy recognition of items including coins and additionally at whatever depth in inches they may be. Many Bounty Hunter Detectors Detecting Metal Ions include various kinds of discrimination Settings depending on the kinds of motion offered as well as the normal All Metals function. The Detecting Metal Ions price is the one other major aspect for virtually every Bounty Hunter detectorist, yet you do have to remember with the detector you will just get that which you can afford and there might be greater value for money detectors available. Therefore if you are new to metal detecting it could be time for you to look at a Bounty Hunter. Cost effective for everybody and user friendly, just don't expect amazing things with these types of machines. The Bounter Hunter TRACKER IV detector is a wonderful detector regarding both newbies and knowledgeable metal detectorists. The TRACKER IV metal detector will discover money, jewellery, and artefacts even in just about the most extreme soil conditions. Regardless if you are detecting in highly mineralized soil or saltwater shorelines, you will Detecting Metal Ions not be unhappy when you use the Tracker IV. This design is really effective and easy to use that you will not do any alterations to Detecting Metal Ions the circuitry to get the Detecting Metal Ions treasure you are looking Detecting Metal Ions for. All Bounty Hunter metal detectors are light and anatomically made for convenience and comfortable for endless effective treasure hunting. The standard motion all-metal setting finds all metals, while the discrimination control eliminates iron as well as other undesirable metallic things. The Tracker IV includes a 2-tone audio signal that assists to differentiate between valuable metals like silver and gold from unwanted metals like iron. It uses an intensity meter as the graphic target method. And it also includes a � inch headphone jack which is suitable for nearly all headsets for privacy whilst detecting or for loud areas and can lengthen battery life. And also, like all Bounty Hunter metal detectors, it runs on 2 nine-volt batteries.




62 Beach Gridding - Land And Water Metal Detecting Technique
Detecting Metal Ions Beach Gridding - Land And Water Metal Detecting Technique Many people ask what metal detecting method works best at the beach? Without question, I always reply, "beach gridding". This technique allows a detectorist to cover a small area of a beach and find far more coins, jewelry and other beach treasures than individuals who zig- zag all over the beach. In a two hour period I cover about a 20 foot square on land and about 15 in the water. On land, I can always Detecting Metal Ions tell where someone else has used this technique and move to another section of the beach because Detecting Metal Ions very little will be found in the gridded sections. It takes concentration to be a gridder, but the rewards are worth the effort. Beach gridding is easier to do on land than water at most beaches and there are three patterns of gridding to choose from. The straight pattern is where you start from the high beach line Detecting Metal Ions and walk a straight line to the low Detecting Metal Ions tide line. At the end of each point you step a foot over, turn around and walk back the other direction and slowly overlap your detector swings. It is important to mark the territory covered and my favorite method is dragging my feet. Others like dragging their sand scoop. This allows you to Detecting Metal Ions visually track the area covered. I use this same technique in the water but some beaches with rushing waves makes it necessary to have visual posts or markers (in the water and on the land) to guide you. Trees, cars, life guard stands, etc. mark my path as I walk towards land, while buoys and stationary boats, etc. guide me out into the water. The second pattern is called the sideways straight. It is identical to the straight pattern but you detect sideways turning after you have gone 15 to 20 feet. I do not use this method Detecting Metal Ions or gridding pattern in the water on most beaches as it is more difficult to use the markers as a guide. The exception to this is detecting beaches like the Gulf Coast of Florida where the tide normally does not destroy the markings left in the sand by me and my sand scoop. The third pattern is a circular one and is best used on large beaches. Go to the center of the beach and upon location of your first target, begin a circular pattern. There is no moving over a foot at each ending point as there are no ending points in a circle pattern as the circle size increases as you go around. This method of beach gridding is gaining in popularity. Detecting Metal Ions Beach gridding, regardless of Detecting Metal Ions the pattern, is a good tool for building a high grade circulated collection of the US State Quarters. A detecting buddy of mine has found 35 different states with 47 different quarters in his collection. Gridding is great! It is also not limited to the beach hunting crowd. Hunting farm land, school and sport stadium grounds, renovated lots and public parks are all good place to utilize one or more of these patterns. In highly hunted areas where old and valuable coins are found in diminishing numbers, using two Detecting Metal Ions of these methods to cover the same area will produce Detecting Metal Ions some winners that randomly hunting detectorists will not find. MetalDetectorForCoinCollecting/free-report

Detecting Metal Ions VIDEO





61 Metal Detectors - Old Verses New
Detecting Metal Ions Metal Detectors - Old Verses New As a 40 year treasure finding hobbyist, I have used almost everything out there in the metal detector world. My first detector was a BFO but I also had an army military detector of the tube type. Detecting Metal Ions I have owned metal detectors manufactured by more Detecting Metal Ions than 15 companies, most of which are no longer in existence. Medeford, Jetco, Relco, Gardiner, Goldak, Metrotech, Heath Kit, Wilson-Newman, were some of my early detectors along with BFO's by Garrett, White's, Fisher, Bounty Hunter and others. Technology was limited in the 60's and 70's but silver and gold abounded and finding thousands of coins and relics each year was very easy. Technology improved dramatically in the 80's and VLF/TR instruments could go deeper and provide ground control/sensitivity options with both all metal and motion configurations that made the 80's a super treasure finding era. My lowest coin find year in the 80's was over 3,600 and my high was more than 8,500. I was working full time as a teacher/counselor, had a night school job and put in 20-40 hours a week working in various Detecting Metal Ions ministry capacities with my church and still found more than 50,000 coins with more than 7,000 being silver. Not bad for a very busy fellow. What made that time frame so productive was great research Detecting Metal Ions and some powerful, now deemed vintage, metal detectors. My favorite of all time is the Fisher 1260. Not Detecting Metal Ions far behind it is the Garrett Master Hunter 7 & 10 units and White's 6000 Series 2 & 3.The Compass Relic Magnum 7, the Bounty Hunter Red Barons, and Tesoro Silver Sabre were also productive units for my coin shooting. The Fisher 1280 and CZ 20 were my best water machines during that time frame and produced more than Detecting Metal Ions 200 gold rings in the 80's. I continued using this same technology through most of the 90's finding about 40,000 coins and another 200 gold rings. I would probably not have changed the technology I was so successful with,but I developed a major neurological challenge called Hereditary Spastic Parapelegia in 1994. This is a gait disease and has caused me to change to lighter, high tech machines and to concentrate on water hunting where walking/diving are easier on me. I refuse to let this challenge take away my favorite pastime/hobby! I am just not able to hunt long periods of time with my old favorites and have sold most of them on ebay and made the shift to the newer technology. I feel that I am able to discuss the advantages and disadvantages of old vintage as well as the newer digital machines. My first years of using TR-only detectors (Transmitter-Receiver) were marked with a great deal of success because I hunted in some areas with high-iron trash accumulations. These detectors were very quick in response and ignored iron targets. I worked around railroad grounds that wereeasier to hunt with TR detectors than any other type. I still use a high frequency TR when I go back to those areas.In the later seventies the VLF/TR instruments gave the capability of going a Detecting Metal Ions little deeper and to ground cancel also. The vast majority of these instruments required motion for the ground cancel operation and were non-motion in the discriminate mode. Many of the machines that came Detecting Metal Ions after this type required a large learning curve to master their full capabilities. Many detector users dropped out of Detecting Metal Ions the hobby because it took so much time and effort to effectively operate these vintage detectors, particularly the upper level detectors of most major companies. This led me to recommend most newbies to the hobby to start off with quality lower-level/cost equipment in getting started. My favorite machines to recommend then were the Fisher 1210, 1212x and the Tesoro Silver Sabre. These and others had excellent depth and required very little time in getting to know or learn their operation and allow the user to quickly meet with success in finding good targets. Today, I would recommend the Fisher F2 or the Garrett 150 or 250 Aces. These take a small learning curve and are dynamite new high tech instruments that sell for $150 to $250. The differences between the old vintage machines and the new modern detectors is more a matter of preference. The newer machines will give a little more depth and provide more user info but the older TR's allow better detection of a good target near a rejected target and will outperform newer machines in working in areas with high junk iron content.In other words there are times and situations where new will outperform old and vise versa. Which detector type should you use today? I personally still prefer the vintage analog detectors, but you can spend more money for the state-of-the-art new detectors and in many cases come out a winner. There are millions of good targets going into the ground each year and Detecting Metal Ions I am thoroughly convinced that there are more masked targets from previous centuries than the combined total of all targets that have been recovered. Here's to "diggin it"!Larry







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Secrets of Metal Detecting
Detecting Metal Ions Very simple fact: Metal detecting is unquestionably the world's most exciting activity! If it were not for metal detectors a large amount of outstanding, infrequently found, as well as treasured artifacts would undoubtedly definitely be languishing in the ground buried from eyesight. Many of these objects were revealed by way of total chance, yet the largest part of them were uncovered in areas which had been diligently investigated previous to any searching took place. I have been an enthusiastic metal detectorist more than thirty-five years, and during this period I have discovered a large number of effective approaches to multiply my finds rate, plus some 'off beat' approaches to make money with my metal detector too! But first, let me start off this enlightening ebook by presenting you one simple fact...It is easy to succeed being a metal detectorist - Once you know the tricks of success ! The thing is that in excess of 95% of so called 'metal detecting experts' have no idea what they're doing with regards to utilizing their metal detectors to their full potential. They understand exactly what each and every switch and button on their specific detector does, understand the exact battery consumption, and possess all the latest gizmos, but their finds assortment is normally extremely sparse. So please do not beat yourself up if you are not as productive as you hoped with employing your metal detector....It certainly is not your fault. ..and this is why... with Most of the help and advice available to metal detectorists is published by people who don't know what they're doing.... It's just like the blind leading the blind. Believe me I know. Over the last 35 years or so I've devoured a fortunes worth of books, courses and video's that I wished would certainly give me the 'secrets.' It was subsequently only when I set about to challenge the techniques they gave, and evaluate my personal new practices that I actually established what worked well and what did not. I was lucky. I not merely had many different detectors to compare my theories and strategies, I additionally had authorization to use these detectors on countless acres of land in order to put them to the test. Some worked wonderfully......Some others flopped. While some simply took my breath away! The 10 insider secrets I'm preparing to reveal are definitely not theories. They are not hearsay. These are tried and tested 'in the field' and every single one of them can certainly help increase your finds tenfold. I promised you a great deal with this write-up, and you are going to get each and every strategy 'on a plate.' So get comfy. Turn your telephone off. Put the 'Don't Disturb' sign on your door. And lock yourself away for the next 10 minutes or so. One last point...As you study this guide you will probably find yourself considering - that's totally obvious - I actually know that or what's so remarkable about that? As soon as you sense yourself doing this STOP yourself and ask 'But am I employing this technique while I am out and about searching?' Quite frankly , if you're actually doing 1 or 2 of these kinds of methods I will be amazed - which is why this stuff's so impressive! Why don't we get started with probably the No 1 worry for most metal detectorists. 1) Acquiring permission from land Detecting Metal Ions owners to search within farm land. This is really a tough one. Many of us don't have the self confidence to inquire about authorisation initially for fear of rejection. This is ordinary human behaviour, and this particular instinctive emotion paralyzes and hinders us from carrying out lots of the things we really want to do. But there is a simple approach to defeat this crippling emotion: Produce a greater fear of regret. I will try and demonstrate by quoting an example of an experience I had several years ago. Close to where I lived was an old farm house near to a 13th century church. Part of the church wall structure had been repaired in antiquity wilh roman tiles, indicating there should be roman remains or a villa near by and for that reason great metal detecting terrain. But even though I vaguely knew the landowner he was renowned for being quite unpleasant and bad tempered. Due to this I never got into contact with him to ask to search his land. One day as I drove past his property I was taken aback to come across a gentleman with a metal detector upon one of his fields. I parked up and walked back to have a chat with him. I informed him I too was a metal detectorist and asked how he was getting on. "Best day of my life" he responded, and opened his bag to reveal to me his finds. He had a veritable treasure trove. A exquisite enameled roman brooch of a hare, many roman silver coins, a roman bronze brooch in the pattern of a flamingo, numerous roman bronze coins, and to top it all off, a gold half noble of Edward the third. I was dumbstruck! A couple of years later, I saw the farmer at a church fund raising event. During the course of our chat I let him know I was sincerely interested in metal detecting.,"Why didn't you say so" he explained "You could have searched my land, but unfortunately I have someone currently doing so. " Wouldn't you just know it. Why had I not askedcontacted him when I had the chance? Do I regret it? You bet I do! I hope my misfortune will inspire you to spring into action and get asking! Don't be left with just regret. After all what's the toughest thing that can happen? A refusal that's all. No broken bones and no blood spilt. It's certainly not that bad is it? So how can we increase our chances of obtaining a yes? While in the early days of metal detecting there was no worries at all in getting authorization to search. Landowners were curious about the hobby, and in the history of the land they owned, but things have changed over the years. A great number of small farmsteads Detecting Metal Ions have disappeared, and large tracts of land have come to be owned by companies that refuse access. A small group of metal detectorists have bought the metal detecting hobby into disrepute through their unlawful behavior, and the press frequently has a unfavorable view of our hobby. But all is not lost. I find the secret here is to build trust. My approach today is not to mention metal detecting at all when first approaching a landowner. I introduce myself as an 'amateur archeologist' or 'birdwatcher' when I ask permission to access the land. Then after a couple of successful visits, when I next meet them, I explain something like "I saw an intriguing area when I was out in your fields today, and wondered if you would mind if I gave it the once over with my metal detector?" I have yet to have a refusal with this type of request. Other phrases that assist with developing trust may include "I will of course regard your crops" and "I am more than happy to report anything I may come across to you personally" Additionally it is a comfort to landowners if you hold a public liability insurance. These days this can be obtained quite inexpensively. To be able to tell a landowner you are fully insured by $5m public liability insurance often works miracles. I often drop this in the conversation if I sense a little reluctance to grant permission. Always try to talk to the landowner direct rather than a staff member. Be prepared to meet a landowner or farmer very early in the morning to chat with him. He will certainly respect you for fitting into his busy routine. Always present some form of i . d . for example a driving licence. Leave a card with contact phone number. Agree to a 50%/50% split on anything of worth that you may possibly find. Offer to show the way the metal detector functions as many 'non-detectorists' assume that you will dig waist deep pits on their land so endangering cattle. Make clear this is just not the case. Detecting Metal Ions Attempt to Detecting Metal Ions do a little investigation on their land with old maps before you visit. Try to inform them of a fact regarding their land they would possibly not know like "Did you know that there was once a cattle fair held on your land" You will be surprised how quickly a 'no' can turn into a 'yes' once you find some common interests! 2) The deepest buried items are ALWAYS found when the earthis wet. Here we go with human instinct again. We don't like to be soaked! And cold and soakedis even worst. So much of our metal detecting is carried out when the weather is fine. But a majority of detectorists tend not to completely recognize that wet earth helps the conductivity of your metal detector a lot, (Up to 50% more depth) and as such it will help locate deeply buried items. I have frequently been to sites that have produced minimal by way of finds throughout the hot summer time months, but have then surprised me by simply 'coming alive' and producing numerous finds when I detected them again during the wet winter months. Never make the mistake of dismissing a site as 'unsuccessful' if you have only ever searched there for the duration of the summer. In case you have I encourage you wrap up dry and warm, and return there in the winter months. I could pretty much guarantee you are in for a enjoyable surprise if you do! 3) Search SLOWLY. You will have heard how essential this is many times, but few detectorists genuinely grasp precisely why you need to searchin this manner. This is important stuff so bear with me and I will endeavour to show you in simple terms whythis is so. It is all concerning how the ‘footprint’ a metal detector search head actually performs beneath the earth. Let us say you have a circular 9" search head. At surface level, with the search head parallel to the soil your effective search area will be the same as the search head. ie a 9 wide circle". Now make an effort to visualize a 'cone' shape like an ice cream cone, also 9” across at the circular wide end and attached underneath the search head, with the pointed end aiming down. If your metal detector has a optimum depth of say 10", the point of this imaginary cone with be 10" deep. Now because we are dealing with a cone shape, if you take a 'slice' through the cone anyplace below the search head, the area here will be smaller than 9". At say 5" deep it might be just 4.5" in area. (50% smaller) This 'smaller' area is the area your metal detector will detect any items buried at 5" deep. Effectively your metal detector now has a greatly minimized search head width of only 4.5" for locating any object buried at 5" deep. As the objects get deeper the problem gets even worst. At a depth of 7.5" your effective search head decreases to just over 2" diameter, and in the vicinity of your optimum search depth of 10" it Detecting Metal Ions is essentially zero! 4) The most effective manner in which to search HILLS. The tops of hills have invariably been a best place for man. In the form of a lookout spot, or perhaps a fort or refuge, and as a result will make exceptional metal detecting territory, but many detectorists tend not to find them successful searching grounds. They turn up, head at once for the top of the hill, and after an hour or so of unproductive searching they head back home again. The trick here is is not to search the summit, but search the area in between half way down and the bottom of the hill. This is due to a natural phenomenon referred to as 'soil creep' which means the topsoil and stones develop a natural tendancy, on account of the motions of wind and rainwater, to move from the top of hills towards the bottom. You will naturally realise that any hilltop artifacts also will move with the soil so this is where we ought to search. A negative aspect of soil creep to detectorists is the fact that finds around the very bottom of the hill can frequently be buried quite deeply, so I would recommend starting about halfway up and just as before, search very slowly. 5) Searching OLD TRACKWAYS There are actually tens of thousands of these out there to search, many on public land. But much like hills a lot of detectorists tend not to search the most productive areas. You usually do not want to waste time searching the tracks themselves. These were generally just a rapid means of getting from A to B, either by horse or wagon. People did not stay on the roads, they camped close by. These areas are where you need to be searching. Try to put yourselves in their shoes. Where is the natural refuge from rain or the wind? Where is there water? Is there a spring or creek close by? Search for signs which may reveal previous camping spots. Tumbledown natural stone walls or rotting tree stumps for instance. A classic sign I have encountered on many occasions is a quantityof brick sized rocks organized in a large rectangle. These rocks were utilised to hold down the sides of large canvas tents, and simply left 'in situ' when the campers moved on to anotherlocation. Take advantage of Google Earth to research probable locations. Good indications are cleared areas, usually circular, and differently coloured areas of grassland within aotherwise normally coloured field. Quite a lot of these kinds of camping locations were used for hundreds of years, and many remain to be discovered. Find one and it may turn into a goldmine ! 6) Ask QUESTIONS...and pay attention to the ANSWERS. The past is nearer than you imagine! Amazing as it sounds the final surviving widow of a man who fought in the American Civil War, Maudie Hopkins, died on August 17, 2008. Yes, just a short time ago. My very owngrandfather was born in 1856, and I have personally spoken with a cavalry man who fought with a sword and lance on horseback in the Boar War in 1899. You will find people still living today who know the location of long forgotten dwellings and homesteads, picnic places, fair and gathering places. Once they pass on that knowledge passes with them. Make a list of all elderly family members and associates and ask questions. Do it TODAY! Tomorrow may perhaps be too late! They're going to Detecting Metal Ions be grateful for the chance to chat. Where did they go to school? Where did their parents or grandma and grandpa go to school? Where did they spend their childhood school breaks. Did they have a favourite fishing place or swimming hole? Use your imagination. Their responses can be priceless for your metal detecting research. 7) The advantages of PLACENAMES. All maps, but specificallyolder maps, provide a wealthof information to assist you locate new locations to search in the form ofplacenames and fieldnames. These types of places are frequently named after people, features, or activities. Many are really evident. For example the town of Battle in England was named as such simply because it was the site of the battle of Hastings in 1066. And what metal detectorist would ignore such gems as fieldnames I have discoveredof silver penny field, temple field, fair field, gold field, or silver acre? A excellent idea for finding previously unidentified roman roads in the UK is to search for field names containing the words 'street' or 'stret' for example two I have found named 'stretend' or 'street orchard'. Then using a clear plastic ruler and a map showing the area, try to line up any natural features to point out the straight line of a roman road. For instance there might be a straight length of trees bordering the field. Lay your ruler parallel to the hedgerow to see if any other feature, perhaps a laneor farm track, lies on the very same line a little Detecting Metal Ions distance away. If so extend the line further away and try and lengthen the line even further. Don't forget to include modern day roads too as these are often built over earlier roads. Tracks, footpaths, field boundries, and ditches may all be included when using this process. Bear in mind there will be 'gaps' in the line you're trying to find such as open fields or even buildings. These spaces are attributable to modern development. Just focus on locating these long lines and you may find yourself a roman road. In the event you do then bear in mind, just as in the advice for trackways, to search locations further away from the road itself. The vast majority ofthese roads were used for quick transport of military people in addition to theirsupplies, not general business. You needto locate the camping spots used by these people. Also look within the map for other indicators of earlyhabitation. Spherical or semi-circular fields should be explored as they were often fortified settlements. I once found an unidentified roman villa by observing a loop shaped detour in an otherwise straight modern road. There seemed to be no reason at all exactly why this feature should be there. On further research I found the road ‘detoured’ around the site of this villa and it has since come to be one of my favourite metal detecting sites. 8) Dig those deep "IRON" signals now and then. A lot of people are limited on the time we can spend detecting, so therefore we set up our detectors to locate simply non-ferrous items. However you will be missing out in a major way if you do this constantly. Many large, deeply buried non-ferrous artifacts will trick your detector and give a loud, wide 'iron' signal, and the only way to know whether it is truly iron or not is to dig it! Frompersonal experience I know this to be true. Some 'iron' signals I have dug have proved to be a bronze age axehead, a large brass travelling inkwell, and even a hoard of civil war era silver coins. Undoubtedly if you dig these types of signals you'll without doubt dig up some iron horseshoes as well, but just imagine what you might be missing if you ignore them. I would also urge you to keep digging even when you haven't located the buried item after digging down 12" or so. I realize how uncomfortable this may be sometimes, especially in the event that the hole that you are digging is within a nice flat field! The heap of excavated earth gets bigger and bigger, and the signal is still down there! A lot of detectorists quit at this point and leave the item there. I have had very big finds (A clay pot containing lead musket balls, and a complete set of horse brasses) from approximately 3' down! So the advice here is always to maintain digging and don't quit ! 9) Generating MONEY along with your metal detector. I've got a great procedure of earning extra income with my metal detector that you could possibly easily mirror in your individual area. For several years I have been offering a service to local insurance companies whereby I search for reportedly lost items of jewelry. Here's the way it operates. If a client of one of the insurance companies reports a lost item, they give me an approximate location of where it had been lost. I then do a thorough search of the area using my detector. If I discover the item I receive a commission of 2.5% of the insurance value of the lost item as payment for my services, so saving the insurance company a payout of 97.5%. If I don't find it then the insurance company pays me a nominal sum of $10.00 as a retainer for my endeavours. My success rate for finding these lost items is about 20%. This isn't very high mostly because of the fact that in these hard economic times many reportedly ‘lost’ items are not really lost at all, but phony insurance claims! Anotherfactor is the fact that many items are lost on the beach (Warm hands cool in the water, and off falls the ring!), or perhaps the insurance claimant is unsure specifically where it was lost. I have found gold rings for insurers in garden compost heaps (Slipped off when throwing grass cuttings ), in a children's play time sand pits, and even in a shallow creek (A lady tossed her engagement ring in the water soon afteran argument with her fiance, and afterthey kissed and made up she wanted it back again!) Another improbable, but money-making way to find modern coins is to search over the large empty car parks you'll find when the mall, shopping centre or theme park etc: is closed. Numerous coins are dropped here by individuals entering and exiting cars. They hear the coin drop but hardly ever recover it simply because it has rolled away below the neighbouring parked vehicles. These lost coins are a little difficult to find by just 'eyes only' but are very easily found with your metal detector. 10) A few non-metal detector treasure hunting suggestions. Have you ever come across an old abandoned shack or house at the time of your metal detecting outings, and been enticed to have a glimpse inside? Many of these contain hidden treasures when you know where to look. Quite possibly the most apparent places is going to be beneath loose floorboards or maybe the attic or roof space, but I want to make you aware of a few places you probably wouldn't check out. As with all my bits of advice so far this is a surefire tactic and lots of objects in my trophy display case were unearthed making use of them. The 1st improbable hidey hole is within the keyhole of old doors. A lot of young kids have 'posted' a coin or any other small valuable objects in a a keyhole, and it has dropped out of sight. Among the things I have recovered from keyholes in the past is a gold half guinea, several gold finger rings, earings and a small diamond brooch. You don't need to even have to take a trip to an empty property to try this technique! Many neighborhoods have an used building materials centre offering 100s of old previously owned doors. Be sure to take a look at them but make sure you remember to take a screwdriver on hand! My 2nd hidey hole is beneath the gaps have a tendency to emerge under the baseboard (also called skirting board, skirting, mopboard, floor moulding, as well as base moulding). This is actually the (generally timber) panel protecting the lowest part of your interior wall of a house. Its purpose is to cover the joint connecting the wall surface (typically plaster or drywall) and the floors. A lot of us will have dropped a coin at some time, and accidently kicked it as you tried to pick it up and it has scuttled across the floor on it's side. This has occurred endless times in many homes, and more often then not the coin disappeared beneath the baseboard never ever to be seen again. My preferred device for recovering these lost coins is a solid wire jacket hanger. Just simply slip it into the gap under the baseboard and work your way along 'fishing' out any kind of hidden treasures. Test it in your own property and find out what turns up. Put only one or two of these techniques and strategies into place and your practically guaranteed to increase your finds amount several fold. Here's to your long-term successes...and Happy Hunting !