Detecting Metal
Each and every field hidess some secret items, from old coins to more modern covered lost items, such as rings. Get a metal detector and uncover your own little bit of heritage!

 Detecting Metal
Probably one of the quickest expanding interests in the country is metal detecting, but before you simply dive in and hand over a good deal of money on a brand-new metal detector, there is something that you need to know. Just about any metal detector possesses all the same components and parts, but you can find lots of different alternatives in makes available for sale. Make use of web based resources which include the sites posted listed below to evaluate metal detecting trends that is going to enable you to recognize which brands and designs provide essentially the most capabilities for the money.



61 Coin History - Aid To Finding Building Coin Collections With Metal Detectors
Detecting Metal Coin History - Aid To Finding & Building Coin Collections With Metal Detectors March 1781, The Articles of Confederation gave Congress the right to determine the value and the alloy to be used in any coin struck in America. This gave the states the right to coin money, and New Hampshire was the first to take action but few of the coins made it into circulation. Several states, such as New Jersey, Vermont, Connecticut, Massachusetts and New York began coining copper coins. In 1793 the US Federal Mint opened for business producing half-cents and cents because they were desperately needed for everyday commerce in Detecting Metal the young but growing new nation. These early colonial and US Federal Mint coins have been found by metal detector users by extensive research and also by luck. The low mintage level meant fewer coins were lost and the likelihood of finding them with a metal detector greatly reduced. Many half-cents and large cents minted from 1800 to 1857, when the era of their minting ended, have been located by detectorists, with the majority of them being found in the eastern sector of the US. My personal oldest is an 1812 Large Cent found at a spring in Palm Harbor, FL. This spring was known to be a watering spot for wagon trains going through Florida in the mid 1800's and had become a favorite swimming and partying spot for teens in recent years. It was research that urged me to check it out and Detecting Metal that 1812 cent was my reward. It was also the only non-modern coin I found as many others had hunted this spot before I did in the early 70's. As a young man in my early twenties, I learned a history lesson that has impacted my metal detector use for nearly 40 Detecting Metal years. If you want to find a specific type or dated coin, i.e. Standing Liberty Quarters 1916-1930, you need to research and find settlement or building activity information corresponding to that time frame. The 1916 SL Quarter is extremely rare. To find one that has a date on it is extraordinary as only 52,000 were released into circulation in 1916 and the dates on all issues from 1916 to 1924 wore off quickly by handling. Research county or city building records, read early histories of your community Detecting Metal and yes, if possible, talk to elderly people who were raised there. To find a quality rare 1916 Quarter, the areas checked should have had building activity between 1916 and early 1920's. Looking in these areas will increase your chances of finding rarer tougher dates. I have found one with just a trace of the date and it was found on a researched school building site. This site also yielded a 1916 S Barber Quarter in VF, 1916 P & S Mercury Dimes in AU condition and a high grade 1916 Buffalo Nickel. Silver coinage has great appeal to coin collectors and has a history worth investigating. The 1792 half-disme or half-dime is rumored to have been made from George Washington's own silverware. This was the year before the US Mint actually opened and the half-dime was struck by the US Mint from 1794-1873. It may seem strange to us today that our first 5 cent coin was not a nickel, but a silver half-dime as nickel production did not begin until 1866. These beautiful small denomination silver coins of several varieties are also tough to find because of age and size. Research again is essential in finding many of these. I have found six dating from 1841-1857 ranging from AG (about good) to fine condition. Five of the six were found in researched sites and the lower condition coins probably reflect the fact that 1860 is the earliest settlement date for this community and only 2,000 people lived here in 1900. By 1900 very few of the half-dime coins were in general circulation. Other silver denominations that have been struck include the 3-cent piece or "trime" as it was known, the dime, the 20-cent piece, the quarter dollar, half dollar and one dollar coins. Why would our nation produce a 3-cent Silver coin? Postage stamps cost 3-cents for many years and convenience was important to the public. That is probably the reason that a 3-cent nickel was produced too (the convenience issue is why many coins have short-lived production). I have used coin history in finding both 3-cent coins but the numbers are small because mintages were low and the silver coins only minted between 1851-1873 and the nickel version from 1865-1889. I have found enough of the nickel type (a larger coin) to have filled more than half of the spots in the coin folder. Grade levels for most of these coins are lower than average as nickel coins do not do well in the ground. The 20-cent coin is the toughest silver issue to find in the ground. Only the flying-eagle cent had a shorter life. Production of Detecting Metal this type was only four years with coins issued for circulation 1n 1875 and 1876. This is the only type coin that I have not located with a metal detector. Finding one is my biggest challenge because production in 1875 included 1,155,000 coins from the San Francisco Mint, 133,290 from the Carson City Mint and only 39,700 from Philadelphia. To make it tougher, the demand was so low for the coin that the mint director Linderman ordered Carson City to melt all that it had on hand after producing only 10,000 for circulation in 1876. 12,359 coins were melted down leaving very few of the 1876 coins escaping into circulation and only Detecting Metal 15,900 were produced in Philly and none in Franny Detecting Metal for that year. This is an issue that very few metal detectorist have found, but I will keep trying! The most sought after and most collected silver coin is the Morgan Dollar. Minted from 1878 to 1921 many millions were minted and large numbers of them, singularly and in caches, have been found with metal detectors. There were none minted between 1905 and 1920 and 1893 - 1895 mintages were Detecting Metal low but applying the same type of building activity analysis can lead to some good detector finds. An upper class neighborhood area where many of the homes were built in the 1880 to 1900 time-frame has yielded several Morgan Dollars for me. A very valuable 1882 S in AU condition with doubling on both sides is the best, but choice 1885 O and 1896 coins are also nice additions to my collection. I have applied the research principle of coin history to building time with all 20th century coin types. Whether it is houses, schools, commercial buildings or industrial structures, I have found numerous valuable coins with this technique. A home built in 1909 turned in a 1908 S Indian Cent and a 1909 S Lincoln. A two story house built in 1890 and used as a high school turned up nearly 40 V Nickels including a 1885 and a 1912 D (plus numerous turn of the century Indian cents). A commercial parking lot from an early 1900's tanning business yielded a 1904 O and 1904 S Barber Halves with the New Orleans mint coin in XF and valued at $240. A school yard where the 1917 building was destroyed in 1964 yielded over 240 pre 1940 coins when the entire lot was leveled over a three month frame in 1978. Over 50 of those coins were Detecting Metal Buffalo Nickels with 30 of them in the teen years. This is the same site mentioned above that turned up my rare 1916 SL quarter and as an unexpected bonus, the oldest of Detecting Metal my metal detecting coin finds, an AD 69 Israel half-shekel. I hope you have learned something about our nation's coin history and how it can help you to add many older valuable coins to your coin collection while having much fun with your metal detector. Here's to "diggin it"!Larry MetalDetectorForCoinCollecting/free-report




60 Fisher F-2 - A Super Start-Up Metal Detector
Detecting Metal Fisher F-2 - A Super Start-Up Metal Detector I have been a big fan of Fisher Metal Detectors since the early 70's. I have owned 15 different models and found nearly 100,000 coins and nearly 400 gold rings utilizing these fine instruments. from the Medalert 11 to the cz20, I have only had to have one repaired as Fisher makes durable, quality machines that pay for themselves over and over again. I am very excited about the latest start-up unit the F-2. The 1210 and 1212x units were and are Detecting Metal amazing start-up machines, but I can only say WOW when I use the F-2. Contact a Fisher dealer and grab this unit up while the 4" coil is still a bonus. I would! It is the best machine for the buck that I have owned. This innovative detector has more features than most detectors selling in the $500 to $600 range. Here are the F-2's Feaures: Target Display with numbers from 0 to 99 (very large numbers) Depth Meter Battery Meter Sensitivity Control Target Groups for Notch Tone ID Pinpoint Button Power Button Adjustable Settings: Sensivity, Discrimination, Notch All of this for $199. The F-2 comes with a stock 8" coil plus a hot 4" coil with extra lower rod and hardware. Again I say WOW! I took the F2 to my test gardens to see what it is capable of doing. With the standard 8" loop I was able to detect every coin buried up to eight inches deep. Silver dimes at 6 to 7 inches were weak signals as were silver quarters at 7 to 8 inches. Wheat cents gave good signals down to about 5 to 6 inches and old nickels came in at 6-7 inches in both of my 5 Feet Detecting Metal square gardens. This is very impressive depth for a low end detector. My amazement with this light weight unit dramatically increased when I switched to the 4 inch coil and went to my trash garden to give it a real workout and test its Detecting Metal TID system. This 3 feet square garden has a variety of pop tops and pull tabs going all the way back to the early 70's plus pencil erasers, foil, chewing gum paper/packages, etc. All the junk you would find in a schoolyard or sport stadium plus new and old coins in close proximity. The newer pull tabs read between 33-35 and most nickels read at 30 to 32 with a few hitting 33. In a matter of minutes I could distinguish between almost every tab and both my older and newer nickels. Incredible! No nickel read higher than 33 and most tabs read 34 Detecting Metal or 35. I have never found a start-up unit that can do this. Tesoro has some of the best differentiating units for nickels verses tabs, but my units selling for $500 -$700 dollars did not outperform Detecting Metal the F-2. The Fisher 4" coil also proved itself depth wise. The nickels and dimes at 5 to 7 inches deep came in very clear, the target system was very stable and Detecting Metal the response speed on this coil is fantastic. I was so impressed with this small coil, that I chose to use it at the beach, my high school stadium and old school yard test spots. In a four hour period at Sponger Stadium, I dug up 211 coins with a face value of $19.55. Nothing old and exciting as field was built after silver disappeared from circulation. Yet 53 coins an hour is very good production. That is almost a coin a minute. This is my 2nd highest four hour total at this stadium in more than 35 years hunting there. In 1985 using a Fisher 1260 with a 4" coil, I took 244 coins in this time period. That was the premier top of the line detector of that time frame and I paid over $400. on a Christmas special. Do you understand why I keep saying WOW about this F-2? At my old school yard the most aggravating signal is the aluminum pencil erasers that can be found eveywhere. My wife was in the first graduating class of Detecting Metal this elementary school back somewhere in the 50's (I dare not age her). I tried to find out why this school has 10 times more aluminum erasers than any other schoolyard I have hunted. She and none of her school buddies could answer my question. Guess what? It is no longer a problem. From my trash garden, then to the school grounds, I learned to target and notch this menace out. In 2 hours I found 20 coins including a 1913 Canadian Quarter, a 1936 Buffalo Nickel and 2- 1945 wheat cents and did not dig up one pencil eraser. This school closed down a few years ago and any coins are leftovers as the grounds are fenced in and only a few people are Detecting Metal given permission to even Detecting Metal walk the old campus grounds and play areas. I have used top of the line Garrett, White, Minelab, Tesoro and Bounty Hunter units along with my Fisher cz20 and have found fewer coins than this. My trip to the Tarpon Detecting Metal Springs Beach with the F-2 was short-lived as rain came within 10 minutes. However, I did recover a nice sterling earring and three pennies. I will not use this instrument in the water as fresh or salt water intrusion would desroy this great little detector. In fact, I am convinced that the F-2 with its 4 inch coil will outperform any detector with a similar size coil. It is fast, it is stable and it goes very deep. WOW! I would charge no less than $60-$100 for the 4" addition. MetalDetectorForCoinCollecting/free-report

Detecting Metal VIDEO





Secrets of Metal Detecting
Detecting Metal Basic fact: Metal detecting is the entire world's most spellbinding hobby! If it weren't for metal detectors a wide range of outstanding, unheard of, not to mention precious artifacts would be likely to definitely be languishing within the ground concealed from eyesight. A large number of items were revealed by pure luck, even so the largest part of them were found in areas that were thoroughly researched before any seeking took place. I have been a keen metal detectorist more than 35 years, and during this period I have discovered a number of successful techniques to raise my finds pace, as well as some 'off beat' strategies to make money with my metal detector also! But first, allowed me to begin this informative ebook by providing you one simple fact...It's not hard to be prosperous being a metal detectorist - When you know the secrets of being successful ! The issue is that well over 95% of so called 'metal detecting specialists' don't know what they're doing when it comes to making use of their metal detectors to their full capabilities. They are aware exactly what every last dial and switch on their own specific detector actually does, understand the exact battery pack consumption, and possess all the most recently released gizmos, but their finds assortment is usually extremely sparse. So please do not beat yourself up if you're not as productive as you anticipated with employing your metal detector....It isn't really your fault. ..and below is why... with The majority of the knowledge available to metal detectorists is produced by people who don't know what they're doing.... It's just like the blind leading the blind. Trust me I know. Over the past 35 years or more I've devoured a fortunes worth of literature, courses and video's that I thought would give me the 'secrets.' It was actually only when I started to challenge the techniques they presented, and test my own new solutions that I actually discovered what did the trick and what didn't. I was fortunate. I not merely had a number of detectors to compare my ideas and strategies, I additionally had authorization to search on 1000s of acres of land to put them to the test. Some worked wonderfully......Other ones flopped. And a few in simple terms took my breath away! The 10 insider secrets I'm about to reveal are not theories. They aren't hearsay. They are proven 'in the field' and every single one of these can help boost your personal finds tenfold. I promised you a great deal with this write-up, and you are going to get every last technique 'on a plate.' So get comfortable. Turn your telephone off. Put the 'Don't Disturb' sign on your door. And lock yourself away for the next 10 minutes or so. One last detail...As you read through this article you will probably find yourself pondering - that's self-explanatory - I currently know that or what's so remarkable about that? Whenever you sense yourself doing Detecting Metal this STOP yourself and ask 'But am I applying this strategy whenever I am out there searching?' Quite frankly , if you are currently doing 1 or 2 of these kinds of tactics I'm going to be amazed - that is why this stuff's so beneficial! So let's get started with perhaps the No 1 worry for most metal detectorists. 1) Acquiring approval from property owners to search on property. This is really a challenging one. Many of us don't have the self confidence to inquire about approval to begin with for fear of being rejected. This is normal human behaviour, and this kind of instinctive emotion paralyzes and prevents us from doing lots of the things we really want to do. There is however a very simple strategy to defeat this debilitating emotion: Build a bigger fear of regret. I would like to make an effort to explain by quoting an example of an experience I had many years ago. Close to where I lived was an old farm house near to a 13th century church. A part of the church wall structure had been repaired in antiquity wilh roman tiles, indicating there ought to be roman remains or a villa in the area and therefore fantastic metal detecting territory. But despite the fact that I vaguely knew the landowner he was renowned for being very disagreeable and bad tempered. Because of this I never contacted him to ask to search his land. One day as I drove past his property I was taken aback to come across a guy with a metal detector on one of his fields. I parked up and walked back to have a chat with him. I told him I too was a metal detectorist and enquired how he was getting on. "Best day of my life" he responded, and opened up his bag to show me his finds. He had a veritable treasure trove. A fantastic enameled roman brooch of a hare, a number of roman silver coins, a roman bronze brooch in the pattern of a flamingo, numerous roman bronze coins, and to top it all off, a gold half noble of Edward the third. I was dumbstruck! A couple of years later, I ran into the farmer at a church fund raising function. During the course of our chat I let him know I was sincerely interested in metal detecting.,"Why didn't you say so" he explained "You could have searched my land, but unfortunately I have someone currently doing so. " Wouldn't you just know it. Why had I not askedcontacted him when I had the chance? Do I regret it? You bet I do! I hope my misfortune will stimulate you to spring into action and get asking! Don't be left with just regret. All things considered what's the worst thing that can occur? A refusal that's all. No broken bones and no blood spilt. It's not really that terrible is it? So how can we boost our likelihood of obtaining a yes? In the early days of metal detecting there was no worries in any way in getting agreement to search. Landowners were inquisitive about the past time, and in the history of the land they owned, but things have changed throughout the years. A great number of small farmsteads have disappeared, and large tracts of land are now owned by companies that refuse entry. A small group of metal detectorists have bought the metal detecting activity into disrepute through their unlawful ways, and the media often has a unfavorable view of our hobby. But all is not lost. I find the secret here is to develop trust. My approach as of late is not to mention metal detecting in any way when first approaching a landowner. I introduce myself as an 'amateur archeologist' or 'birdwatcher' when I ask approval to access the land. And then after a few successful sessions, when I next meet them, I explain something like "I saw an intriguing area when I was out in your grounds today, and wondered if you would mind if I gave it the once over with my metal detector?" I have yet to have a refusal using this type of question. Other terms that can help with building trust can consist of "I will obviously regard your crops" and "I am more than happy to report anything I may locate to you personally" Additionally it is a comfort to landowners if you possess a public liability insurance. Nowadays this can be acquired quite cheaply. To be able to inform a landowner you are totally covered by $5m public liability insurance often works wonders. I often drop this in the conversation if I sense a little reluctance to grant permission. Always try to speak with the landowner direct instead of a staff member. Be prepared to meet a landowner or farmer very early in the morning to chat with him. He will respect you for fitting into his busy routine. Always display some kind of identification for instance a driving licence. Leave a card with contact phone number. Agree to a 50%/50% split on anything valueable that you may possibly find. Offer to show precisely how the metal detector operates as many 'non-detectorists' believe that that you are going to dig waist deep pits on their land so endangering cattle. Make clear this is not the case. Make an effort to do a little study on their land with old maps before you decide to visit. Try to inform them of a fact about their land they would possibly not know like "Did you know that there was once a cattle fair held on your land" You will be surprised how quickly a 'no' can turn into a 'yes' once you find some common interests! 2) The deepest buried objects are ALWAYS located while the earthis soaked. Here we go with human nature yet again. We don't want to be wet! And chilled and wetis even worst. So much of our metal detecting is carried out when the weather is fine. But many detectorists tend not to fully fully grasp that wet earth can help the conductivity of your metal detector tremendously, (Up to 50% more depth) and as a result it can help locate deeply buried items. I have frequently been to sites that have produced minimal by way of finds in the hot summer months, but have then surprised me through 'coming alive' and producing numerous finds when I detected them again during the wet winter months. Never make the error of disregarding a site as 'unsuccessful' if you have only ever searched there during the summer. In case you have I urge you wrap up dry and warm, and return there in the winter months. I could pretty much guarantee you are in for a pleasant surprise if you do! 3) Search SLOWLY. You might have heard how crucial this is many times, but few detectorists truly fully understand exactly why you should searchlike this. This is fundamental stuff so bear with me and I will try to clarify in simple terms whyit is. It is all to do with how the ‘footprint’ a metal detector search head actually works beneath the earth. Let us say you have a circular 9" search head. At ground level, with the search head parallel to the earth your effective search area is going to be identical as the search head. ie a 9 wide circle". Now endeavor to picture a 'cone' shape like an ice cream cone, also 9” across at the circular wide end and attached underneath the search head, with the pointed end going down. If your metal detector has a maximum depth of say 10", the point of this imaginary cone with be 10" deep. Now due to the fact we are dealing with a cone shape, if you take a 'slice' through the cone anywhere below the search head, the area here will be smaller than 9". At say 5" deep it might be just 4.5" in area. (50% smaller) This 'smaller' area is the area your metal detector will detect any objects buried at 5" deep. In essence your metal detector now has a substantially decreased search head width of only 4.5" for discovering any object buried at 5" deep. As the objects get deeper the problem gets even worst. At a depth of 7.5" your effective search head decreases to approximately 2" diameter, and in the vicinity of your maximum search depth of 10" it is probably nil! 4) The most effective way to search HILLS. The tops of hills have continually been a most popular place for man. To provide a lookout spot, or perhaps a fort or sanctuary, and thus will make outstanding metal detecting territory, however, many detectorists don't find them successful searching grounds. They turn up, head quickly for the top of the hill, and after an hour or so of unproductive searching they head back home again. The key here is is not to search the summit, but search the region between midway down and the bottom of the hill. This is due to a natural phenomenon named 'soil creep' meaning the topsoil and stones develop a natural tendancy, as a result of the actions of the wind and rain, to advance from the top of hills towards the bottom. You will of course realise that any hilltop artifacts will also move with the soil so this is where we should search. A drawback of soil creep to detectorists is the fact that items on the very bottom of the hill can often be buried quite deeply, so I would recommend starting about halfway up and once more, search very slowly. 5) Searching OLD TRACKWAYS You will find tens of thousands of these available to search, many on public land. But as with hills many detectorists do not search the most productive places. You usually do not want to waste time searching the tracks themselves. These were normally just a swift means of getting from A to B, either by horse or wagon. People didn't stay on the tracks, they camped in the area. These areas are where you should be searching. Endeavor to put yourselves in their shoes. Where is the natural shelter from rain or the wind? Where is there water? Is there a spring or creek in the area? Try to find signs which may signify previous camping spots. Tumbledown natural stone walls or rotting tree stumps for instance. A typical sign I have seen on several occasions is a quantityof brick sized rocks organized in a large rectangle. These rocks were utilised to hold down the sides of large canvas camping tents, and just left 'in situ' when the campers moved on to anotherplace. Employ Google Earth to research probable areas. Excellent indicators are cleared areas, usually circular, and differently coloured areas of grassland in aotherwise normally coloured field. A lot of these kinds of camping locations were used for hundreds of years, and many remain to be discovered. Find one and it might turn into a goldmine ! 6) Ask QUESTIONS...and pay attention to the ANSWERS. Earlier times is nearer than you imagine! Remarkable as it sounds the last surviving widow of a man who fought in the American Civil War, Maudie Hopkins, died on August 17, 2008. Yes, just a short time ago. My owngrandfather was born in 1856, and I have personally spoken with a cavalry man who fought with a sword and lance on horseback in the Boar War in 1899. There are folks still living today who know the location of long lost dwellings and farms, picnic areas, fair and gathering spots. When they pass on that knowledge passes with them. Create a list of all elderly family members and close friends and ask questions. Do it TODAY! The next day could be too late! They'll be pleased for the chance to chat. Where did they go to school? Where did their parents or grandparents go to school? Where did they spend their childhood school annual vacations. Did they Detecting Metal have a favourite fishing spot or swimming hole? Use your imagination. Their replies could be very helpful for your metal detecting research. 7) The usefulness of PLACENAMES. All maps, but specificallyolder maps, offer you a large amountof information to help you discover completely new areas to search in the form ofplacenames and fieldnames. These places are mostly named after people, features, or activities. Many are really evident. For example the town of Battle in England was named as such because it was the site of the battle of Hastings in 1066. And what metal detectorist would ignore such gems as fieldnames I have identifiedof silver penny field, temple field, fair field, gold field, or silver acre? A good tip for discovering previously unknown roman roads in the UK would be to search for field names incorporating the words 'street' or 'stret' for example two I have found named 'stretend' or 'street orchard'. Then working with a clear plastic ruler and a map showing the area, try to line up any natural features to indicate the straight line of a roman road. For instance there might be a straight length of trees bordering the field. Lay your ruler parallel to the hedgerow and see if any other feature, perhaps a laneor farm track, is situated on the very same line a little distance away. If that's the case extend the line even further away and try and lengthen the line even further. Do not forget to include modern day roads also as these are typically built over Detecting Metal earlier roads. Tracks, footpaths, field boundries, and ditches may all be included when using this process. Keep in mind there will probably be 'gaps' in the line you are hunting for for example open fields or even buildings. These spaces are caused by modern development. Just concentrate on discovering these long lines and chances are you'll find yourself a roman road. If you do then keep in mind, Detecting Metal just as in the suggestions for trackways, to search locations further away from the road alone. Most ofthese roads were employed for quick transport of military people along with theirresources, not general commerce. You needto locate the camping spots used by these people. Also look on the map for various other indicators of earlyhabitation. Circular or semi-circular fields ought to be investigated as they were often fortified settlements. I once found an unknown roman villa by observing a loop shaped detour in an otherwise straight modern road. There seemed to be no reason at all at all exactly why this feature should be there. On further investigation I found the road ‘detoured’ around the site of this villa and it has since come to be one of my favourite metal detecting sites. 8) Dig those deep "IRON" signals now and then. A lot of people are limited on the time we can spend detecting, so therefore we set up our detectors to discover exclusively non-ferrous items. But you are going to be missing out big time for those who do this continuously. Many large, deeply buried non-ferrous objects will trick your detector and give a loud, wide 'iron' signal, and the sole method to know if it is truly iron or not is to dig it! Frompersonal experience I know this to be true. Some 'iron' signals I have dug have proved to be a bronze age axehead, a large brass travelling inkwell, and even a hoard of civil war era silver coins. Obviously should you dig these types of signals you are going to without doubt dig up some iron horseshoes as well, but think of what you could possibly be missing out on if you disregard them. I would furthermore urge you to keep digging even though you haven't located the buried item after digging down 12" or so. I realize how uncomfortable this may be sometimes, especially if the hole you are digging is in a nice smooth field! The load of excavated earth becomes bigger and bigger, and the signal continues to down there! Many detectorists give up at this point and leave the item there. I have had very large finds (A clay pot containing lead musket balls, and a complete set of horse brasses) from almost 3' down! So the advice here is to keep digging and don't quit ! 9) Earning MONEY together with your metal detector. I've got a great system of earning additional money with my metal detector that you can easily mirror in your own area. For several years I have been offering a service to local insurance providers whereby I search for reportedly lost items of jewelry. Here's how it works. When a client of one of the insurance companies reports a lost item, they give me an approximate location of where it had been lost. I then do a exhaustive search of the area with my detector. If I locate the item I receive a commission of 2.5% of the insurance value of the lost item as payment for my expert services, so saving the insurance company a payout of 97.5%. If I don't find it then the insurance company pays me a nominal sum of $10.00 being a retainer for my endeavours. My success rate for discovering these lost items is approximately 20%. This isn't very high to some extent because of the fact that in these hard economic times many reportedly ‘lost’ items have not been in reality lost at all, but bogus insurance claims! A furtherfactor is the fact that many items are lost on the beach (Warm hands cool in the water, and off slides the ring!), or perhaps the insurance claimant is uncertain specifically where it was lost. I have found gold rings for insurers in compost heaps (Slipped off when throwing grass cuttings ), in a kids play time sand pits, and even in a shallow creek (A lady threw her engagement ring in the water just afteran argument with her fiance, and afterthey kissed and made up she wanted it back again!) An additional improbable, but money-making way to find modern coins would be to search over the large empty car parks you will find when the mall, shopping centre or theme park etc: is shut down. Numerous coins are dropped here by individuals entering and exiting cars. They hear the coin drop but hardly ever recover it because it has rolled away beneath the neighbouring parked vehicles. These lost coins are a little hard to find by just 'eyes only' but are readily found with your metal detector. 10) A few non-metal detector treasure hunting ideas. Have you ever discovered an old abandoned shack or house at the time of your metal detecting outings, and been tempted to take a peek inside? Many of these contain hidden treasures once you learn where to look. Quite possibly the most obvious places would definitely be below loose floorboards or perhaps in the loft or roof space, but I would like to make you aware of a few locations you probably wouldn't consider. As with all my strategies so far this is a proven tactic and quite a few objects in my trophy case were unearthed making use of them. The first improbable hidey hole is in the keyhole of old entrance doors. Many young children have 'posted' a coin as well as other small valuable objects into a a keyhole, and it has slipped out of sight. Among the items I have recovered from keyholes through the years is a gold half guinea, a number of gold finger rings, earings and a small diamond brooch. One doesn't even have to visit an disused property to do this technique! Many towns possess an used building materials centre providing plenty of old second hand doors. Be sure to head over to them but don't forget to take a screwdriver at hand! My second hidey hole is beneath the spaces are likely to emerge under the baseboard (also called skirting board, skirting, mopboard, floor moulding, as well as base moulding). This is actually (generally timber) board covering up the lowest part of any interior wall of a house. Its purpose is usually to cover the joint in between the wall surface (generally plaster or drywall) and the floorboards. Many of us will have dropped a coin at some time, and accidently kicked it as you attempted to pick it up and it has scuttled across the floor on it's side. This has happened innumerable times in many properties, and frequently the coin disappeared beneath the baseboard never ever to be seen once again. My favourite instrument for recovering these lost coins is a solid wire coat hanger. Simply ease it into the gap under the baseboard and work your way along 'fishing' out any kind of tucked away treasures. Try it in your personal residence and find out what turns up. Put only one or two of these techniques into place and you're sure to greatly improve your finds amount several fold. Here's to your long-term success...and Happy Hunting !







Here Are A Few More Detecting Metal  Articles.


Detecting Heavy Metals In Soil
Detecting Fools Gold With Metal Detector
Detecting Florida Metal
Detecting Deep With The Mxt White
Detecting Coins Metal
Detecteur Deeptech Vista 1000
Detecteur De Metaux
Detecter Pro Metal Detecters
Detectable Truncated Domes Metal
Detect Metal Rod
Detect Metal Objects In Envelopes
Detect Metal In System Machine Failure
Detect Metal Differences
Detect Metal
Detect Bronze
Detech Ssp 3000 Metal Detector
Detech Ssp 3000
Detech Ssp 2100 Metal Detector
Detech Ssp-2100 Used
Detech Ssp
Detech Ssp-2100 Induction Pulsee
Detech Ssp-2100
Detech Ssp-3000
Detech Metal Detectors
Detech Metal Detector
Detech Metal Detecting Coils
Detech Gp 3000
Detech Detector Vista Rg750
Detech 3000
Detec Metal Detector

59 Metal Detectors - Answers to Frequently Asked Questions
Detecting Metal Metal Detectors - Answers to Frequently Asked Questions Metal detecting involves inquisitiveness so it has many interesting aspects attached to it. However, not only the general public but many amateur detectorists have questions about the detecting process. What the general public thinks about detecting can be ascertained by the below Detecting Metal statement. " detecting seems a tiring and expensive way of playing treasure hunt." Apart from ignorance, there are many misconceptions which get stuck to a process - more so if it involves technology. Some frequently asked questions about detecting and their explanations are discussed below. How is Metal Different Detecting Metal from Paintball and Treasure Hunt? detecting may have similarities to paintball and treasure hunt, but these are games and metal detecting is more Detecting Metal of a process and not a game as such. Also, the end result in metal search is a real treasure. Is Metal Illegal? If a detectorist abides by the law and ethics, there is nothing illegal about metal search. But it is Detecting Metal illegal if a detectorist doesn't report his findings to authorities if there is historical importance attached to it. Is Metal Detecting Done Only on Land? Metal is done mostly on land, but it is also done in water, at beaches and even forests. Can a Female Become a Detectorist? Metal detecting is not gender biased but requires skill, patience and more importantly - curiosity. Even children (mostly in United States ) are members of active detecting groups. Does Metal Involve other Metals than Gold and Silver? Metal detecting is not only about gold Detecting Metal and silver detecting but it involves searching different kinds of metals, coins, articles, jewelry, traces and Detecting Metal even small flakes and historical items. How often Metal Detectors Come Across Valuables of Historical Importance? Many metal detector manufacturers claim to make such devices which will take Detecting Metal you towards metals and other items easily, but for that Detecting Metal to happen such articles should be Detecting Metal present at those places, right? With so much digging (for construction) going around all over the world, the chances of finding coins and other valuables is quite low. Also, majority of detecting trips yield nothing as such, or worthless Detecting Metal items at times. Apart from doubts and misconceptions, one thing about detecting is a true - it is a combination of patience, passion and luck at times.